This entire section lies on the east side of Skyline Drive. It is mostly side hill trail paralleling Skyline Drive as they both descend toward Rockfish Gap. The trail crosses a stile and ascends for .2 miles from McCormick Gap, then follows the western side of the ridge just below the crest. At 2.9 miles, the trail passes a side trail which leads down to the Shenandoah National Park southern entrance station. At 3.4 miles, the trail reaches the Skyline Drive. The last .3 mile of the section follows the shoulder on the east side of the Skyline Drive. The section ends at the bridge over I–64.
An hour or so before I hiked this section, a thunderstorm had passed over the region. I was hoping that would be it for storms/rain for the day. In fact, the sky was mostly clear and bright when I parked at McCormick Gap. But by the time I was ready to start walking, the sky was cloudy again. I realized it might rain again, but decided to go ahead and walk the section. I had perhaps walked a mile when it started to rain – gently at first, but gradually harder. There were also low rumbles of thunder overhead, but I never saw any lightning. I was wearing a rain shell which fortunately kept most of the rain off my upper body. I quickly learned to avoid stepping on the rocks (which were slick). However, by stepping carefully I was able to keep moving. It rained for about half an hour, during which time I probably covered around a mile. Then it gradually diminished and stopped. By this time, the sun was just above the horizon, but was shining through the clouds. Its rays, filtering through the wet leaves and tree branches made for a beautiful sight. I was reminded again that God is sovereign, and uses even the difficulties of life for the ultimate benefit of those who belong to him. That includes the death of my brother, The Climber, approximately 12 years before this particular hike. I was reminded of the (after rain) beauty I walked through on the weekend before his death. See link (fix).
Leaving Jarman gap, the Appalachian Trail climbs steadily to its intersection at 1.0 mile with a side trail that leads right to a spring and the Calf Mountain Shelter. This shelter is perched high on the upper part of this slope. The trail continues to ascend and passes below the summit of Calf Mtn. at 1.6 miles. I’d met a PATC member on the AT near Loft Mountain the previous weekend who told me that a relocation had just been opened between Jarman Gap and Beagle Gap. I'm glad I had been told that – when I got on the relocation, I was immediately aware that it was a recent relocation. And I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the relocation takes the trail over Little Calf Mountain , which offers a very nice view of mountains across an open field. (It used to be on a side trail.) As I descended toward Beagle Gap, I also realized that the relocation had lengthened the section. I was later told by another PATC member, that the relocation replaced an "absurdly steep" section of trail. I had to wait until I received the 2013 data book to learn just how much longer the section was – it added a full .7 mile to the section – from 4.3 to 5.0 miles.
There is a nice parking area at Beagle Gap - at Skyline Drive milepost 99.5. I chatted for a while with a couple who were just beginning to hike sections of the Appalachian Trail in Shenandoah National Park. I then climbed Bear Den Mountain. The slopes and the initial part of the ridgeline of this mountain are bare – i.e. few or no trees – and so offers nice views. There are actually two summits to this mountain, both of which seem to have police radio installations. The trail then descends to McCormick Gap. Despite the electronic installations on these summits, it is a unique and enjoyable section to hike.
This was a pleasant section, with an 800 foot elevation gain through woods followed by a descent of 300 feet in elevation. I was particularly impressed by the excellent condition of the trail. The trail markings are also very impressive. All trail intersections seem to be marked with solid concrete posts containing one or more metal bands indicating trail distances to key points in any direction that any trail goes from the intersection.
Jarmans Gap (2173'), at mile post 96.9, on the Skyline Drive is marked by a parking lot on the right side of the "drive". The Moormans River Fire Road provides access to the AT. At 1.1 miles, the trail reaches the summit of a hill (2453'). Then at 1.7 miles the AT crosses to the left (or west side) of the Skyline Drive (at mile post 95.3 - 2200'). At 3.1 miles, the summit of another knob (2650') is reached. Just beyond the knob, a blue blazed trail leads .9 miles to the summit of Turk Mountain. At 3.3 miles, the AT crosses to the east side of Skyline Drive (in Turk Gap - mile post 94.1 - 2625'). At 5.3 miles, the AT crosses back to the west side of Skyline Drive (at mile post 92.4). At 5.6 miles, the section ends when the AT reaches the Wildcat Ridge Trail (3100'). I followed this trail to the right to reach the Skyline Drive and my vehicle.
This was the first new AT section I hiked during the 2012 season. The section begins with a moderate ascent of .5 mile. I had no idea what kind of an area I was in, so I was astounded when I emerged onto the rocks around Blackrock Summit. The trail guide indicates that Blackrock Summit and the area around it is reminiscent of the above tree line terrain of New Hampshire's White Mountains. I would agree with that assessment. The rocky area is extensive and the views are very striking. It is one of my favorite areas among those I've seen thus far on the Appalachian Trail. The trail basically makes a level circle around the summit. Continuing on, the AT crosses the Black Rock Spur Trail and then descends toward Blackrock Gap. At about 1.3 miles a spur trail leads left steeply down .2 miles to Blackrock Hut. This hut is located in a deep ravine – the access and setting are striking.
The trail crosses to the east side of Skyline Drive at 1.8 miles. It crosses a Fire Road at 2.0 miles and further a couple knobs around 3.1 miles, then back to the west side at 3.8 miles. At approximately 4.5 miles, the trail intersects the blue–blazed Riprap Trail and at 4.9 miles passes the Riprap Parking Area. The trail then alternatively climbs and descends until at 7.6 miles, it reaches its intersection with the Wildcat Ridge Trail. Skyline Drive milepost 92.1 is .1 mile to the left.
This was a wonderful hike on a sunny day. I met and spoke with numerous people – some out for the day, others backpacking along loops in the area. I look forward to getting back to Black Rock Summit – it’s nice that it’s so close to parking which will facilitate future quick visits.
The Doyles River Trail connects the Skyline Drive (.2 mile W) to the Doyles River cabin and spring (.3 mile east). At .9 miles, the trail passes through the Doyles River Parking Overlook (at milepost 81.9 on Skyline Drive). At 1.4 miles, the trail crosses to the west side of Skyline Drive. At 2.2 miles, a concrete post marks the junction with Madison Run Fire Road in Browns Gap. The trail crosses to the east side of the Skyline Drive at this point. The trail then skirts the Dundo Picnic Area and at 3.5 miles crosses the Jones Run Trail and then passes through an old apple orchard. At 3.7 miles, the trail crosses to the west side of Skyline Drive, then ascends very gently. At 4.3 miles, the trail reaches the Black Rock Summit Parking Area.
This section is characterized by gentle ascents and descents. It was an enjoyable evening walk, despite there not being much in the way of views.
At the time that I hiked this section, the Ivy Creek Overlook was closed for repaving. Nevertheless, I walked across it to find the trail. Heading south, the trail crosses an unnamed ridge and reaches a nice viewpoint with the Skyline Drive immediately below the trail at .8 miles. At 1.4 miles, the trail crosses Ivy Creek and begins an ascent of Loft Mountain. Near the top of Loft Mountain, I heard a noise off to my right. To my surprise, there was a bear about 40 feet away. It was facing north while I was heading south. It didn’t seem to be concerned about me, so after a brief pause I continued on my way. At 2.4 miles, the AT passes to the right of the peak of Loft Mountain at around 3320 feet elevation. At 3.0 miles, there is a 270 ° view from the trail. Then for the next 2.5 miles, the trail skirts around the Loft Mountain Campground with occasional views. At 4.2 miles, a trail to the right leads to the Loft Mountain Campground Store. Several additional trails, marked by concrete posts also access Loft Mountain Campground. At 6.0 miles there is a panoramic view. At 6.3 miles, the AT reaches the Doyles River Trail with Skyline Drive 200 feet to the right.
This was a pleasant section to hike on a sunny summer morning. At one point, I met a member of the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club who was mowing along the sides of a section of trail. I also saw other people on the trail or in the campground as I walked. This is a pleasant section with nice views and ready access to water and even food at the campground in season.
The section begins on the eastern side of Skyline Drive in Powell Gap, where there is a nice open field in which I parked. In 1.6 miles, there are excellent views of the Roach River Valley from rock ledges. At 1.8 miles, the summit of the shoulder of Flattop Mountain is reached. At 3.3 miles, Simmons Gap is reached, and the trail crosses to the west side of Skyline Drive. At 4.4 miles, the trail reaches the top of Weaver Mountain. At 5.2 miles, the trail crosses to the east side of Skyline Drive at Pinefield Gap. At 5.4 miles, the trail reaches an access road, which leads to the Pinefield Hut. At 7.0 miles, the section ends at Ivy Creek Overlook.
This was the first day of a four day hiking trip. I got to the trailhead late in the day and made the hike during the last several hours of daylight. I had earlier hoped to be able to complete this section in late 2012, but encroaching health issues diminished my energy level to the point that I was not able to do so. Those health issues also prevented my doing any hiking at all during 2013 and 2014. It was especially sweet to be able to get this section (and the one immediately to the north of it) near the beginning of the 2015 hiking season. After completing these two sections - between Ivy Creek Overlook and US 33 - I began to gradually move northward, first in Shenandoah National Park, then in successively in northern Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania, completing 36 separate sections during 2015.
The section begins at the northern end of the bridge over US 33. Just south of the bridge, the trail leaves the west side of the road (Skyline Drive). At 1.3 miles, the trail crosses to the east side of Skyline Drive in a grassy sag. At 3.4 miles, a spur trail leads right .1 mile to Hightop Hut. At 4.6 miles, the trail crosses to the west side of Skyline Drive in Smith Roach Gap. At 5.8 miles, the trail passes just to the left of the summit of Little Roundtop Mountain. The end of the section is reached at 6.2 miles, in Powell Gap. On the east side of Skyline Drive, in Swift Run Gap, there is a nice grassy field which provided an ideal spot at which to park to access this section.
This was a warm, sunny day - as is usually the case in the summer. Based on the notes in the trail guide, I think there were some nice views - however, I can't remember specifically what they were like. This was my first hiking trip (i.e. trip made solely for the purpose of hiking) after getting back on the Appalachian Trail after a 2+ year hiatus. See my notes on the section between US 211 and Elkwallow Wayside for more detail.
This section begins on the eastern side of Skyline Drive in Swift Run Gap. The trail leaves the road just north of the bridge over US 33. It ascends through woods and, over the next 2 miles, crosses Saddleback Mountain. At 3.0 miles, the trail crosses the South River Falls Trail, which leads to a picnic area with water and restrooms available "in season". At 5.0 miles, the trail reaches the summit of Bald Face Mountain (3600 feet). At 6.3 miles, a trail leads right, downhill to Pocosin Cabin. At 8.2 miles, a trail to the left leads to Lewis Mountain Campground. Water and restrooms are available here as well. At 11.6 miles, the trail reaches Bootens Gap. To the left, 150 feet is parking for five vehicles.
This was my second Appalachian Trail hike after a hiatus of more than two years due to health issues. This is detailed more extensively under the note for the section between Panorama Wayside and Elkwallow Wayside. It was really a longer hike than was ideal for the level of my conditioning at that point. However, it was a safe and successful hike - and along with the first one (on 5/24/2015) - provided a 20 mile (total) jumpstart to the hiking season (my first since retiring). At years end, I had completed 256 new miles on the Appalachian Trail during the course of 2015, 110 miles of that on 11 days in October.
It was especially nice to be able to visit the Lewis Mountain Campground late in the hike - to rest/eat at a picnic table and to replenish my water supply. In order to accomplish this hike, I left my vehicle at the endpoint, then stepped out on skyline Drive to look for a ride to the starting point. Soon, a couple from Maine picked me up and gave me a ride to the starting point. We discovered that we share a common faith in the Lord Jesus Christ and anticipate seeing each other again.... They invited me to visit when I get to Maine.
I hiked this section with my friend Tim S. The trail is mostly in the woods, but it does cross the Skyline Drive at Milam Gap and then crosses the Lewis Spring Road (a gravel access road for Big Meadows Lodge employees). This was a pleasant walk on well-maintained trails.
In Bootens Gap (3243'), at mile post 55.1, there's a parking area with space for five cars. The Conway River Fire Road leads from there to the AT. At .4 mile, the blue blazed. Laurel Prong Trail leads right 2.8 miles to Camp Hoover. At .9 miles, the trail crosses the wooded summit of Hazeltop which at 3812', is the highest point on the AT in Shenandoah National Park. At 1.8 miles, the AT crosses the Skyline Drive (at mile post 52.8, just South of Milam Gap - 3289'). At 3.9 miles, the trail crosses Tanners Ridge Road (3272'). This road leads right to the Skyline Drive. To the left, it leads out of the park. I think it is an access road for park employees. At 4.5 miles, the trail crosses a park service road (3302'). To the left, this road leads to Lewis Falls. Then at 4.9 miles, a trail to the right leads .1 mile to the Black Rock viewpoint and then .2 miles further to Big Meadows Lodge. The intersection of this trail and the AT mark the end of the section.
This section begins near the parking area in Fishers Gap. Briefly follow the road in front of the parking area to the west - the trail will soon branch off to the left. At 1.0 miles, the trail begins to skirt the north/west side of the Big Meadows Campground. At 1.3 miles, the trail crosses a small rocky knob known as Monkey Head. At 2.0 miles, a trail leads left to the Blackrock Viewpoint and then on to Big Meadows Lodge.
I got this section on the evening before hiking the next section to the north with my friend, Mike S. (on the following day). I correctly determined that it would be better for me to do this section alone, and thereby somewhat shorten the section for the following day. I enjoyed walking around the outskirts of the Big Meadows Campground, seeing people enjoying being there/preparing for the night etc. At the end of the walk, I had the opportunity to spend some time at the Blackrock Viewpoint, chatting with a husband-and-wife for a while, then also a gentleman who joined us. Soon we had to cut that short in order to "beat the darkness" - to get back to "civilization".
This section begins at the Stony Man Trail Parking area, .2 miles from Skyline Drive along the Skyland Service Rd., north. Heading south, the trail threads among trees and open areas that lie between the accommodations at Skyland and Skyline Drive. At .8 miles, the trail crosses the paved Skyland Service Rd., south. It then passes to the left of the Skyland stables. At 1.1 miles, the trail leads along cliffs on a ridge under Pollock Knob. At 3.3 miles, the trail reaches Hawksbill Gap. At 4.6 miles, the Appalachian Trail comes out of deep woods into an old orchard that is now overgrown. Also at this point, a road and trails provide access to Rock Spring Cabin and Rock Spring Hut. At 6.5 miles, the trail reaches Red Gate Fire Road and the Fishers Gap Parking Area.
I hiked this section with a friend, Mike S., who also likes to hike, but rarely has the opportunity to do so. It was a good opportunity to catch up with each other, and to reflect on the state of the nation and the Christian church.... It was a pretty, sunny day. We enjoyed a lunch stop on some of the large rocks in the middle portion of the hike. Also of note, the completion of this section marked my completion of the entire Appalachian Trail in Shenandoah National Park. It also made it possible to complete the Appalachian Trail in Virginia later in the week - when I hiked the trail sections between Bears Den Hostel and Ashby Gap (US 50).
This section begins at the Stony Man Trail parking area, .2 miles from Skyline Drive along the Skyland Service Rd., north. At .4 miles, the trail reaches a .4 mile loop trail around the summit of Stony Man Mountain. This spot is also the highest point on the Appalachian Trail in Shenandoah National Park - at 3837 feet. At 1.1 miles, the trail reaches the cliffs of Little Stony Man. The view (to the west) from these cliffs is truly stupendous, indeed the entire central portion of Shenandoah National Park has a number of nice views to the west over the Shenandoah Valley. At 2.0 miles, a spur trail leads 200 feet right to the southern end of Stony Man Mountain Parking Overlook.
I hiked this section of the trail with a friend, Tim S., who was visiting Shenandoah National Park as part of his business - performing music on the hammered dulcimer. "We" had planned to hike the entire 10.5 miles from the Blackrock/Lodge Trail (Big Meadows) to the Stony Man Overlook, however, after hiking nearly 21 miles over the prior three days, I did not feel ready to hike another 10+ on this day. So we settled for a short hike. We enjoyed good fellowship together, camping overnight, and spending several hours together in the morning prior to the hike as well. We also enjoy chatting with the family camping in the campsite next to us at Big Meadows Campground.
This section is accessed by a short trail from the south end of Stony Man Overlook. The Appalachian Trail in this section is often sidehill trail, lying below the Skyline Drive and some of its overlooks. At 1.9 miles, the trail passes through the Pinnacles Picnic Area. At 3.3 miles, the trail passes to the right of the highest point of The Pinnacle. The trail then follows the level ridgecrest with excellent views. At 4.3 miles, the trail reaches Byrds Nest #3 Hut. At 5.6 miles, a spur trail leads left to Marys Rock. The trail guide indicates that the views from this point are unsurpassed anywhere in the Park, and that is probably true. I enjoyed these views, while also wishing that there would be more open views along the Appalachian Trail than currently exist.
The views west from the central portion of Shenandoah National Park are particularly interesting, most especially because of the presence of Massanutten Mountain. This mountain extends from US 33, east of Harrisonburg to VA 55, east of Front Royal Virginia. It bisects the Shenandoah Valley. It also splits into two (2) mountains north of US 211, forming a narrow valley known as Fort Valley.
The Panorama Wayside used to be the location of a restaurant, but now is basically a rest area and a parking area for access to the Appalachian Trail and other trails in Shenandoah National Park. The lower parking lot is accessed directly from US 211, making it possible to walk into Shenandoah National Park without needing to drive through the entrance station to the park (fees).
This was the first Appalachian Trail section I hiked in more than two years, due to a health issue (severe balance issues caused by a condition known as vestibular migraine) that by late 2013 had rendered me nearly unable to function. This was because it had also significantly diminished my appetite, resulting in my being depleted nutritionally. A year and one half on medication to address the issue, and my retirement in August of 2014 combined to enable me to recover to the point of being able to hike again. In the weeks prior to this hike, I had made several shorter walks, in order to gradually build up to getting back on the Appalachian Trail.
I hiked this section with a friend with whom I had worked during the career from which I retired. We enjoyed catching up with each other, and talking about such things as Medicare - since he was already on it and I was beginning to get close to it. I had forgotten a lot of my hiking techniques and precautions, nevertheless, it was a successful hike. We did not turn off on any of the side trails, except to go to the Pass Mountain Hut. It was a warm sunny day and overall, a very pleasant hike, despite the fact that I ended up with swollen lower legs, obviously due to fluid buildup.... That continued to be an issue for some weeks as I gradually got back into hiking condition. In due time, continue hiking resulted in stronger and larger leg muscles and the problem gradually resolved itself.
This was the first of two sections completed on this date - the second one was the section immediately north of this one. This section begins at the Appalachian Trail Parking Area on the east side of Skyline Drive at Gravel Springs Gap. At .2 miles, the Appalachian Trail turns right at a concrete post. The Bluff Trail turns left and descends to the Gravel Springs Hut (and Gravel Springs) in .2 mile. At 1.8 miles, the trail reaches the top of Little Hogback. At 2.6 miles, the trail passes the first peak of Hogback. At 4.4 miles, the trail makes a fourth crossing of the Skyline Drive at a point .2 mile from Mathews Arm Campground. At 4.6 miles, the trail reaches the Range View Cabin service road. At 5.1 miles, a second side trail leads .1 mile to Range View Cabin. At 5.9 miles, the trail crosses to the right of Skyline Drive - almost immediately a trail to the left leads 200 yards to Elkwallow Wayside. Short order food, water and a limited selection of supplies are available there - along with restrooms. I enjoyed a wonderful cheeseburger there to top off this hike - a nice lunch. The Appalachian Trail crosses the Skyline Drive at least five times in this section. Also, there are some overlooks along the trail, one in particular that I remember looks down on and over Rattlesnake Point Overlook on Skyline Drive. It was an enjoyable section to hike, including a visit to the shelter/hut.
This was the second of two sections I completed on this date - the first one was the section immediately south of this one. This section begins at the Appalachian Trail parking area on the west side of Skyline Drive at Jenkins Gap. At 1.7 miles, the trail crosses to the east side of Skyline Drive at Hogwallow Gap. At 3.2 miles, the trail reaches the summit of North Marshall (once owned by John Marshall, Chief Justice of the United States from 1801 to 1835). At 3.9 miles, the trail crosses to the west side of Skyline Drive at milepost 15.9 - where there is a paved parking area for 12 cars. At 4.4 miles, the trail reaches the summit of South Marshall. At 5.5 miles, the trail reaches Gravel Springs Gap at milepost 17.7 on the Skyline Drive.
I think it was on the summit of North Marshall that I made a left turn on another trail to see if I could find a view. However, all I found was an increasingly steep and rugged trail. I quickly backtracked and continued southward on the Appalachian Trail.These mountains (North Marshall and South Marshall) are interesting mountains. There were no overlooks - the side trail mentioned was supposed to lead to one (overlook), but it did not appear that it would be a very good one, if indeed there even was one (an overlook).
This section begins at the Appalachian Trail parking area on the south side of US 522, several miles east of Front Royal, VA. For the first 1.4 miles, to VA 602, the trail parallels the boundary of the National Zoological Park Conservation and Research Center. The boundary is made up of a high chain-link fence, behind which are open fields then (closer to VA 602) woods. Northern Virginia 4-H center is accessible at 2.1 miles - I did not do so. At 2.8 miles, a blue blazed trail to the west leads to the Tom Floyd Wayside Shelter. The shelter is perched on a hillside - it has a wood deck built onto the front of it with a picnic table. At 3.6 miles, the northern boundary of Shenandoah National Park is reached. The trail crosses/follows several old roads for a while, then reaches Compton gap at 5.6 miles. The trail crosses Skyline Drive at this point and continues south, climbing Compton Mountain. At 7.7 miles, the yellow blazed Jenkins Gap Trail is reached. It leads to a parking lot at milepost 12.3 on Skyline Drive (Jenkins Gap).
This was a nice, bright, sunny and warm summer day. As I hiked southbound, I passed/met many northbound through hikers, some of whom I had seen/met in the previous couple of days while hiking southbound on the sections just south of this section. The climb was pleasant, despite being long and strenuous. However, as I prepared to leave the area, a thunderstorm moved in. Moving quickly, I was (just barely) able to take care of logistics... and get into the car before the rain became heavy.
My friend Mike S. hiked this section with me. The trail for the first 2.3 miles of this section parallels a high chain link fence, following a National Park Service easement over land that belongs to the Research And Conservation Center - a 4000 acre wildlife preserve belonging to the National Zoological Park. According to the trail guide, this land was formerly a USDA livestock research station and before that a US cavalry remount post. The land on the other side of the chain link fence didn't seem to be very well-maintained, but perhaps that's the way a zoo wants the outer perimeter of its land to be.
At 3.3 miles, the trail crosses a stream. Seventy yards later, a blue blazed trail leads right 100 yards to the Mosby Campsite. In the middle of the section, there was a very nice stretch of woods that looked like it might be virgin timber - tall, straight trees. At 5.2 miles, a short trail leads left to the Jim and Molly Denton Shelter and campground (1310'). This shelter has a wooden patio extending out from the front of it. There's also a small separate shelter with a picnic table (or two) under it. At 6.3 miles, the trail reaches paved VA 638 and the end of the section.
Just before reaching VA 638 (1120'), we encountered two riders on horseback on the trail. That was not appreciated as horses are not permitted on the AT (except in the Great Smokies National Park).
The Jim and Molly Denton shelter is considered to be one of the nicest shelters on the AT. The setting is nice as well - in a clearing with nice trees around the perimeter.
My friend Mike S. drove me from my vehicle at the ending point to my starting point for this section. The access trail is short, about .2 mile from VA 638 and leaves a very large, wide area on the east side of the road. At 1.1 miles, a blue blazed trail to the right leads to the Trico Firetower. This fire tower is at 2207', on the highest point in this section. At 3.0 miles, the trail reaches the Manassas Gap Shelter (1655') and a spring. At 3.5 miles, the trail leaves the G. Richard Thompson Wildlife Management Area. At 5.3 miles, the trail crosses a massive foot bridge, then reaches a PATC parking area (with a picnic table) just off of VA 55 on VA 725. The trail then briefly follows VA 725, passing underneath I - 66 to VA 55.
The trail crosses VA 55 (Manassas gap - 800') at 5.5 miles from the beginning of the section. It then follows a boardwalk across several channels of Goose Creek. At 6.2 miles, the trail makes a steep switchback at the base of a large cliff and passes among other rocks. The climb to this rock was steep, but not very long. At 6.4 miles, the trail enters an old orchard, which is part of an abandoned farm on the top of the mountain. VA 638 and the end of the section, is reached after crossing a stile at 7.4 miles. The descent on the south side of the mountain drops into pastureland (with some trees) for a while before reaching VA 638.
My friend Mike S. hiked this section with me. A short side trail connects the parking area to the AT. The AT then quickly reaches and crosses US 50 (900'), .25 mile west of Ashby Gap. I recall the trail being in a low area and somewhat marshy for a bit just south of US 50. At 2.8 miles, there's a good westward view where the trail enters Sky Meadows State Park. At 3.1 miles, there's a blue blazed side trail (1840') that leads left 1.7 miles to Sky Meadows State Park. At 3.4 miles, the trail enters the G. Richard Thompson State Wildlife Management Area. The AT passes through this management area for most of the next 7.3 miles. At 5.4 miles, the trail crosses a creek in Whiskey Hollow. Then, in 70 yards, a blue blazed trail to the left leads .2 mile to Dicks Dome Shelter (1230'), but we didn't take the time to go to the shelter. We didn't have any trouble finding the side trail back to VA 638 and parking area number #7 at 6.8 miles. Of course it helped that I had previously used that same side trail to access the section detailed above this one.
We talked with one or two people who had walked up from Sky Meadows State Park to the AT. We also enjoyed talking to a couple of section hikers, who were hiking on the trail for a period of multiple days. It was a pretty and pleasant afternoon punctuated with nice interactions with them and lots of other hikers.
This was the second day of a two-day group hike. (For the first day, see the next section (to the North). The week of 7/17 through 7/24/2015 was the occasion of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy biennial meeting in Winchester, VA. The group making this hike consisted of about 16 of the attendees of the meeting. The group was led by Ron and Carol Bungay, with the able assistance of an ATC ridgerunner, Hal Evans. After spending the night at Bears Den Hostel, the group ate breakfast and prepared lunches there. We then again traveled by vehicle to Morgans Mill Road. This time we headed south on the Appalachian Trail. At 3.3 miles, the southern end of "the Roller Coaster" is reached. At 3.7 miles the blue blazed trail to Rod Hollow Shelter is reached - we stopped there for lunch.
At the PATC parking lot at the end, we were met by a "shuttle van", and provided with a variety of cold drinks. We stayed there a while, enjoying the satisfaction of having completed two demanding hikes together. For me, it was especially sweet - the completion of this section also marked my completion of the entire Appalachian Trail in the state of Virginia (my home state).
The manner in which we did these two hikes - through most of "the Roller Coaster" - made them much more pleasant to do then hiking them on my own would have been. This was because the group paused for a "rest" break at the end of each climb and descent.
It was still early in the afternoon, so after returning to Bears Den Hostel, I drove to the trail crossing on WV 32 and walked the 1 mile northbound on the Appalachian Trail, then the blue blazed trail to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy office. In so doing, I also completed the state of West Virginia on this day.
This was the first day of a two-day group hike. The week of 7/17 through 7/24/2015 was the occasion of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy biennial meeting in Winchester, VA. The group making this hike consisted of about 16 of the attendees of the meeting. The group was led by Ron and Carol Bungay, with the able assistance of the ATC ridgerunner, Hal Evans.
The group convened at Bears Den Hostel, then traveled by vehicle to Morgans Mill Road. From there, we proceeded North on the Appalachian Trail. At 1.8 miles, we took the side trail to Buzzard Hill. It was here that we spent some time getting acquainted - each one sharing their name and a one-word description of themselves, beginning with the same letter as their name. We stopped at the Sam Moore Shelter (at 3.2 miles) for lunch. We then continued on to Bears Den Rocks at 6.2 miles.
At Bears Den Hostel, we had supper together - put together primarily by Ron and Carol. All participants spent the night on the property - some in the hostel, others in a PATC cabin.... The following morning, the group was transported back to Morgans Mill Road, this time to hike South.
The manner in which we did these two hikes - through most of "the Roller Coaster" - made them much more pleasant to do then hiking them on my own would have been. This was because the group paused for a "rest" break at the end of each climb and descent.
This was the first of two sections that I hiked on this day, the second was the section north of the Blackburn Appalachian Trail Center. The blue blazed access trail from the Blackburn Appalachian Trail Ctr. to the Appalachian Trail is quite steep, but fortunately not too long. At 3.8 miles, the trail reaches Devils Racecourse - the trail is Rocky through this area. This is also approximately the point at which the "Roller Coaster" begins. This is a 13 1/2 mile section of continuous ascents and descents. At 4.5 miles, the trail reaches Crescent Rock with views of the Shenandoah River and Valley. At 7.1 miles, the trail reaches Snickers Gap (VA 7), a four-lane road which is the primary road access from I-81 (and Winchester) to Bears Den Hostel. At 8.0 miles, the trail reaches Bears Den Rocks. The rocks afford wonderful views of the Shenandoah Valley towards Winchester. Two nearby side trails both provide access to Bears Den Hostel.
The Bears Den Hostel is a unique Appalachian Trail facility offering bunks, toilets, showers, washer, dryer, cooking facilities etc. During my visits there, I've learned that it is also an appealing facility for some "non-hikers" who favor inexpensive lodgings, especially during the colder months. It is owned by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy and managed by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. Traveling, as I do, with a mini RV, I found the parking lot there to be an ideal place for overnight stops.
I hiked this section on a warm sunny day. It was an enjoyable hike, despite the somewhat stiff climb from Snickers Gap to Bears Den Rock at the end. While at the rocks, another hiker arrived with a very friendly dog - a lab/poodle weighing about 90 pounds.
This was the second of two sections that I hiked on this day, the first was the section south of the Blackburn Appalachian Trail Center. Shannondale Road is not an official AT access point (at least for hiking), however there is a small parking lot (primarily used by trail maintainers) near the upper end of this residential road. It appears that the access trail from the parking lot to the Appalachian Trail is what the trail guide refers to as Old Shannondale Road.
When I arrived at the Blackburn Appalachian Trail Center, I was expecting to have to drive back down to the valley below to get supper and find a place to spend the night. However, Chris and Trail Boss were preparing supper, which is free for thru-hikers. Upon inquiring, I was told that for a donation I could stay for supper - and spend the night there. What a blessing at the end of a long and rather rigorous day of hiking.
This was the first of two sections that I hiked on this day, the second was the section north of WV 9. I parked in the Appalachian Trail parking lot on WV 9. With rain in the forecast, I moved quickly through this section and do not recall stopping at either the shelter or Buzzard Rocks. Shannondale Road is not an official AT access point (at least for hiking), however there is a small parking lot (primarily used by trail maintainers) near the upper end of this residential road. It appears that the access trail from the parking lot to the Appalachian Trail is what the trail guide refers to Old Shannondale Road. The trail in this section was mostly level, a pleasant ridgeline walk in the woods.
This was actually the second section that I hiked on this date, the first one was the section south from WV 9. I parked in a pull-off along WV 32 (Chestnut Hill Rd.) a short distance from the Appalachian Trail crossing (of the road). I got on the trail as quickly as I could, because despite the bright sunny skies and warm temperatures, there was a rain forecast hanging over my head.
As is the case on the trail below WV 32, the trail above WV 32 is also very steep - for the first .6 miles - at which point the Loudoun Heights trail turns off to the east. I hope to go back up there sometime and walk that trail. On this day, I hastened south on the Appalachian Trail, hoping to stay ahead of any rain that might be coming. Alas, a mile or so into the section, clouds rapidly moved in and moderately heavy rain began to fall. For the next 2 miles, the trail was a stream bed - until the storm diminished and moved away. I finished the section under bright sunny skies, but with wet, leaking boots - which of course also meant wet feet. I would also note that once past the steep beginning of this section, the grades are gradual, but as mentioned, sloped enough for water to run down the trail (rather than across it) in most places.
I had completed the rest of the trail in West Virginia 15 days before this date (on July 8). However, I specifically refrained from completing this last mile. Being a (nearly) lifelong resident of the state of Virginia, I had decided that I was going to complete the Appalachian Trail in the state of Virginia before completing it in any other state. So, having completed Virginia by the midafternoon of this sunny, warm July day, I decided (in the spirit of the four state challenge - i.e. through hikers getting from Virginia to Pennsylvania in one day) to go ahead and complete West Virginia on the same day.
I parked in a pull-off along WV 32 (Chestnut Hill Rd.) a short distance from the Appalachian Trail crossing (of the road). The trail descends steeply from the road - 260 feet in less than a mile. The last quarter-mile descending to the US 340 bridge is particularly steep. I had planned to simply turn around and walk back up to WV 32. However, it had been a long day and I was tired - I didn't feel like climbing back up that steep slope.
When I reached the blue blazed trail (leading to the ATC headquarters), it was my intention to turn around and walk down to a parking lot under the US 340 bridge to see if I could find someone who would be willing to give me a ride back up to WV 32 (about 2 miles). However, I felt strongly that I should follow the blue blazed trail to the ATC office, despite the fact that it was about 6:30 PM, i.e. the office would obviously be closed. As I approached the parking lot behind the ATC office, a young lady was approaching a vehicle. I instinctively asked her if she would be willing to give me a ride back up to where I had started.... She immediately agreed, and within a few seconds, I was in the car.
A day or two before, there had been a major fire that gutted several buildings along the lower part of Washington Street, and she asked if we could drive by there on the way. I readily agreed because I was also interested in "looking". As we drove slowly by, it appeared that workmen were finishing with the boarding up of the doors and windows of the affected building(s). (Later, I got on the web and found some pictures and descriptions - a rather major fire in a tightly packed historical district.) We then continued on via Shenandoah St., north on 340, then the hard right turn onto Chestnut Hill Rd. She indicated that she had been hiking the trail, but had gotten off the trail because of some health issues. However, her boyfriend was heading north on the trail to meet her in Harpers Ferry - which probably occurred within a couple of hours after I saw her.
It was a delight to be able to finish both Virginia and West Virginia on the same day. See the descriptions of the two sections between Ashby Gap (US 50) and Bears Den Hostel for the description of the completion of my last Virginia sections.
A tendinitis problem in my big toes, limited the amount of my hiking in 2011. This was the only new section for 2011. I hiked this section, during the last few hours of nearly a week of rain. I'd intended to carry an umbrella, but inadvertently left it in my vehicle. I did however have a nice, lightweight Gore-Tex shell jacket that was waterproof. I walked through off and on rain throughout the section. It was a very warm and humid day, so there was no risk of becoming chilled. Also there was no thunder or lightning with this rain.
The trail leaves the left side of the AT parking lot (373') on a 20 foot access path. The trail then drops through woods to cross under the US 340 overpass (280') at .2 mile. At .4, it reaches Keep Tryst Road (260'). It then passes through a parking lot, past an NPS gate, then over the CSX railroad tracks and a causeway over the abandoned Chesapeake and Ohio Canal to reach the towpath (that follows the canal and the Potomac River). The trail turns right onto the towpath at this point.
At 2.0 miles, the trail crosses under the Sandy Hook (US 340) Bridge. When I got to this point, it had been raining for 10 min. or so and had gotten rather heavy. So I stopped and waited under the bridge for perhaps 15 or 20 min. When the rain slowed down, I resumed walking. The rain soon stopped and the walking became pleasant again. At 3.1 miles, the trail reaches the Goodloe Byron Memorial Footbridge (which crosses the Potomac River). Metal stairs ascend from the towpath to the footbridge. This footbridge is actually attached to the side of a railroad bridge, and at the same level as the railroad track. Some years ago my wife and I walked across the footbridge (from Harpers Ferry and back), just as a train came screaming through. On this day, however, there was no train. Fortunately, the footbridge is completely encased in a heavy wire mesh, which makes it impossible to get onto the railroad track.
As one leaves the south end of the footbridge, there is a nice overlook (260') on the left, offering a view of the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers.
The trail then passes under the trestle to the right. But before passing under the trestle, there is a post showing a map of the AT route through Harpers Ferry. This is helpful because there are no blazes between the trestle and the cliff (i.e. Jefferson Rock). After passing under the trestle, the trail turns left onto Shenandoah Street (the first street you come to), then turns right on High Street. After passing the first house, turn left up the steep rock staircase. Just after reaching the top of the staircase, at 3.5 miles, the ruins of St. John's Episcopal Church are on the right. Then just ahead on the left, is Jefferson Rock (413'). The path to the right leads a few yards to Harpers Cemetery. The trail then enters woods and becomes rather rocky, with lots of slanted rocks. By the time I got into this portion of the section, it had begun to rain again. At 4.0 miles, the AT reaches its intersection with the blue-blazed trail (484') to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters. This side trail passes through the campus of Storer College, which has several large and interesting signboards along the path (sidewalks) regarding its history.
I had a vehicle parked near the ATC headquarters, which was a very welcome sight at the end of this rainy hike. I enjoyed some food and a bit of rest, then made my way to the AT headquarters. I enjoyed checking out some of the current maps of the trail and the other items they had for sale. I have a complete set of the AT trail guides and maps, however it dates to the mid-90s. The trail maps for some of the states are rather hard to read. After looking at the current maps (which are much better) that were on display, especially of PA and the New England states, I anticipate that I'll want to obtain another complete set in a few years.
I did also visit a hostel in Harpers Ferry and obtained a ride from there to my starting point for this hike. I had previously visited Harpers Ferry, so didn't spend any time visiting historic sites. However I did enjoy driving by lots of them and getting more familiar with the layout of the town. It is an interesting town to sightsee with a lot of history and historic buildings.
This section begins at the Appalachian Trail park-and-ride parking lot on Weverton Road (.2 mile off of MD 67). The trail briefly parallels Weverton Road, then crosses it and ascends 480 feet via "16 well engineered switchbacks" to a spur leading to a short, blue blazed trail to Weverton Cliffs. At 3.0 miles, a blue blazed trail leads to the Ed Garvey Shelter. Because of the threat of rain, I chose not to visit the shelter. The section ends at Gathland State Park.
This was the last day of a three-day hiking trip. Rain was in the forecast and the skies were overcast. Even so, I expected an impressive view from Weverton cliffs - over the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers. The ceiling (i.e. the level of the underside of the clouds) was high, so they had no one impact on the view. However, a lot of trees obscured the view - it was not nearly what the pictures I've seen led me to expect.
The Ed Garvey Shelter memorializes a gentleman who was very devoted to the Appalachian Trail and its maintenance. Gathland State Park is particularly interesting. The most striking thing to me, was the small burial chamber which the owner of the estate had built for himself. But, by the time he died he was penniless and was buried elsewhere. The other buildings, ruins etc. were also interesting - a quiet, pleasant state park. I was able to complete the hike early in the day, before any rain began to fall.
This section begins at the Appalachian Trail parking area at Gathland State Park. At .4 miles, a blue blazed trail leads to Crampton Gap Shelter - I did not stop there. At 3.6 miles, the White Rocks Cliff (quartzite) offers an impressive view. At 3.8 miles, there is a fenced communication tower on the summit of Lambs Knoll. At 5.4 miles, a blue blazed trail leads to Rocky Run Shelter. At 7.2 miles, the Dahlgren Back Pack Campground is reached. This is located just .2 mile from the Appalachian Trail parking lot on US Alt-40 (at 7.4 miles). On the other side of the road at this point is the historic Dahlgren Chapel. Heading north from US Alt-40, the trail passes to the left of Dahlgren Chapel, then climbs to cross over a knoll, descends and climbs again before reaching Monument Road in Washington Monument State Park.
The Dahlgren Back Pack Campground is worthy of special note - camping, water, restrooms and hot showers are available there (at no charge).
This section begins at the Appalachian Trail parking area at Washington Monument State Park in Maryland. At .8 miles, a short trail ascends west to the original Washington Monument. At 3.3 miles, the trail passes over I-70. At the north and of the footbridge, a side trail to the east leads to US 40.
This was the second section completed on this day, just after the section to the north - US 40 to MD 17, Wolfsville Rd. The original Washington Monument it is very interesting. It is a stone structure on a high hill with a nice view.
The access point for this section is a side trail that leaves the south side of US 40, just east of Greenbrier State Park. It leads downhill to the AT footbridge which crosses over I-70. Upon reaching the AT footbridge, turn right on the Appalachian Trail, initially paralleling I-70 before veering away (from the noise...). At 2.2 miles, a side trail to Annapolis Rocks is reached. This rock provides a nice view over the countryside below. It's also a popular rock climbing spot, as evidenced by the presence of a group that was doing just that. There are also a lot of backpacking campsites along the trail to the Rocks. A mile further, the trail reaches Black Rock Cliffs. The trail for much of the last few miles to Wolfsville Road is rather rocky. The trail between I-70 and Annapolis rocks is mostly smooth and very pleasant.
It was a beautiful sunny day and a very enjoyable walk.
This section begins at Pen Mar County Park, just south of the Pennsylvania state line (on the trail). It crosses a grassy area in the Park, then enters the woods. It is a pleasant, slightly graded walk until at 1.5 miles, it gets (very) rocky, very quickly. It then ascends steeply, up Quirauk Mountain among large boulders. At the time, I found this portion to be one of the more unpleasant that I'd hiked. However, since then I've encountered other sections with large boulders to climb over (and around). I'm learning that it's necessary to set aside one's hiking poles from time to time in such areas. It probably wasn't as bad as it seemed to be at the time. The trail becomes level at the top, but remains rocky.
At 2.9 miles, a blue blazed trail to the east leads to High Rock. It was mid-summer - the farmland below made the view one of the most striking that I've seen on the Appalachian Trail. I've realized that an overlook does not need to be thousands of feet above what is below. Rather, those that are a mere few hundred feet "above" the land below make for a more pastoral and much more detailed view.
Back on the Appalachian Trail, at 5.5 miles a side trail to the west leads to Raven Rock Cliff. As the trail continues south it crosses numerous roads, eventually reaching the Ensign Cowall Shelter at 9.6 miles. At 9.8 miles, a blue blazed trail leads left to a spring. The section ends at MD 17, Wolfsville Road. A blue blazed trail turns left just before reaching the road. It leads to an AT parking area.